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Monday, August 1, 2011

Pheri Bhetaulwa

About four months ago, we were leaving. Anxious, excited, naive, unclear
and a bit worried about what would happen, we boarded our first plane. It was about two months ago that we returned to Vancouver, BC and our trip ended. Surreal isn’t even close to a legitimate description for how our trip felt. To me, it almost felt like time had stood still. Like it was all just a dream. Like I had taken a nap in the Vancouver airport, had the wildest vivid dreams of meeting people/crawling over passes/pit toilet puking/etc, and then woke up and should be boarding my flight soon…but it was over.

Officially, we went to Nepal to do some hiking and climbing. It started as a shocking experience as we quickly realized that we were far removed from any thing familiar. On top of that, financially we couldn’t afford to climb anything that was on our list of possible peaks. It sounds crazy to anyone from the USA because here we can climb peak after peak without having to shell out too much money. Maybe a park entry fee or parking pass for a trailhead, but this was different. Permits in Nepal can range from $700 USD to $12,000 per peak. Not only that, but you need an arsenal of people to cart around your food and high altitude equipment. Two solo climbers would have a hell of a time carting all that around on their own. The smallest climbing party we heard of was seven- two climbers, and five sherpa/porters to cart gear, set up camp, and break down camp. We acquiesced to the Nepalese rules and regulations and decided to stick with hiking.

Most people come to Kathmandu and hate it. I had read about Kathmandu, and most authors had suggested quickly escaping city limits. The possibilities of food borne illness, crime, respiratory illness, and/or accidental death seemed far too likely. I’ll admit that we hated it at first. Dodging cars in traffic, ignoring beggars, and trying to find some sort of oasis in a city that is reminiscent of minimally controlled chaos was tricky enough. It was exhausting, actually. We prepared accordingly for our second visit to the city. The shit show of Kathmandu started seeming more and more normal. At least we could get food for cheap, a sweet room, and a hot water shower without too much haggling or hassle. Good cafes were chosen as break spots during the long days of errands or city excursions. By our third visit, I started to like it and was excited to return. I got the honking horns, rickshaw drivers, bartering shop owners, even the humor.

It might seem odd, but I’ve been feeling something similar to homesickness when I think of Nepal and Kathmandu. I don’t know why, but there is something going on there that I absolutely love…even in that god-awful city. I can not wait for the day I stand at Thamel Chowk, an intersection of cars, bikes, people, cows and cultures, and feel at ease again. Watching new tourists walk around slack jawed and confused, while I think, “newbies,” and go about my day like I belong there. Taking fate into my own hands as I jump into traffic, eat street food or ride the local bus. Hell, I will probably even rent a dirtbike. I also can’t wait to see the handful of people I met along the way that are absolutely amazing. Those people include Bom and Shanti, the three Prems, Vijay, Rom, Laxmi, Sundicha and her family, and many others.

Recently, I’ve been in Idaho focusing on work and playing outside. Overall, I’ve adjusted to home life just fine. No major personality changes or epiphanies. Had anxiety for a little while but that is gone. Also was incredibly impatient with people, but that has gone back to normal as well. Aside from lingering intestinal issues and a funky skin fungus (both have been resolved), I returned unscathed and unchanged…and life is back to normal, until my next adventure.

Mero naam Krissy ho. Malaaee khusee laagyo. (my name is Krissy, and I am –still- happy)

Pheri Bhetaulwa Nepal. I hope we meet again soon.